tastingmenu.com - All About Apples, September 19, 2004

September 19, 2004

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Red Cabbage Velouté with Apple Geleé. It’s a touch cold outside and the aroma of this concoction starts to fill your body with warmth. Thicker than a soup and smoother and lighter than a puree, it’s a velouté. A cabbage velouté. This soup is Autumn. Fireplace, leaves turning red, color. The apple geleé perched in the middle melted instantly, its unseen pyramid base of flavor softening under the surface of the velouté. The cabbage is smoky and hearty but smooth smooth smooth. The geleé that hasn’t yet melted ends up becoming tiny pockets of sweet and sour in your mouth. The chestnut puree is candy in the middle. Now my mouth is round. The chestnut puree gets on my spoon in dabs. I try to ration it so that it lasts evenly throughout the dish.

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