Puri Mas,
Amsterdam, Netherlands, tasted on March 26, 2004 — Amsterdam
has many specialties. Two particularly prominent ones when it comes
to food are the legal marijuana and the Rijsttafel. And while I'm
not suggesting that I partook of one before enjoying the other, I
have to admit that it did occur to me that the perfect antidote to
the "munchies"
(as it has been described to me) would be the Indonesian "rice
table" found in restaurants across Amsterdam. An endless series of
plates of yummy asian meats, rice, and sauces in various interesting
and delicious combinations. And frankly, even without the aid of
mind-altering drugs the Rijsttafel seemed like a blur to me.
Indonesian restaurants offering Rijsttafel can be
found all over Amsterdam. While I've been trying to avoid the
tourist circuit, I think
Puri
Mas pretty much fits the bill. My Dutch
friends seemed to look at it as more of a novelty than anything
else. But still, endless small plates of Indonesian food seems
attractive, touristy or not. Along with some interesting
cocktails we ordered the Rijsttafel Royaal - the biggest and (of
course) therefore best of the choices we had. We also ordered
copious amounts of
Bir Bintang,
an extra light slightly bitter Indonesian beer that was helpful in
cooling us down after some of the spicier dishes.
We started off at a semi-sedate pace.
Veggie crackers came for us to snack on. They were yummy and
savory with some complex (what I imagine to be) Indonesian spices.
The brown ones had a tiny kick which made them extra enjoyable. This
was followed by chicken curry soup (Soto
Ayam) which was gingery and quite tasty. The warm hard-boiled
egg added texture to the soup in the form of an egg "drop". There
was also a plate of fried items -
Martabak, Leompia, and Udang Goreng. These were a crispy
seasoned pastry, an egg roll, and a fried prawn respectively. Each
was golden and hot. The
spicy sauce and peanut sauce that were served as accompaniments
were helpful. Everything had a crispness and a spiciness that was
super enjoyable. The meat filled pastry was quite good and there
were middle eastern qualities about its flavor.
What followed really was like a hurrican of
Indonesian flavors and dishes. Chicken satay (Sate
Ayam), pork satay (Sate
Babi), lamb satay (Sate
Kambing), pork in a very spicy sauce (Babi
Ricah), lamb in curry sauce (Gulai
Kambing), chicken in spiced Balinese sauce (Ayam
Bumbu Bali), various kinds of vegetables with peanut sauce (Gado
Gado), spiced cucumber salad (Acar
Ketimun), two kinds of rice - fried (Nasi
Goreng) and seasoned yellow (Nasi
Kuning), and fried coconut powder (Serundeng)
which was very cool and tasty to put on top of our various dishes.
The food came fast and furious and so did the flavors and textures:
sweet sticky crispy chewy thick sauced peanut honey soy cinnamon
coconut citrus and definitely spicy! All dishes were distinct under
the umbrella of Indonesian flavors even though the meal echoed one
large complex and flavorful note. And when the dishes were spicy,
the beer helped. One particular standout was the bowl of essentially
french fries Indonesian style (Sambal
Goreng Kentang). They were crunchy and sticky sweet in a good
way with a definite tomato flavor. Yum!
I'm sure hardened Amsterdam visitors and residents
might scoff at our time spent at the Rijsttafel. And for all we know
this may n0t have been the best one to try (though it was according
to several sources on the net whom I know nothing about). The
service was pretty aggressive. Certainly not bad, just kind of
always there. And they were also dying to know what we thought all
the time (or so they said). Well, we thought dinner was pretty good
actually. While we weren't necessarily stunned, the parade of small
Indonesian plates, and the strong nature of the spectrum of flavors
and textures was quite enjoyable and unique at least in terms of our
experience (as none of us have ever been to Indonesia). Unique and
enjoyable seems good to me.