A Week at the Culinary
Institute of America (continued) - Finished Dishes, Hyde Park, NY,
tasted on December 19-22, 2005 — In the
last post we covered
the actual cooking of the food. At the ends of day two and four we
gathered all our creations and laid them out
on a table in the hallway outside our kitchen - cruise ship
buffet style minus the ice sculptures.
And as much as we learned during the hands on portions of the class, the
time in the kitchen was at its most useful in giving a sense of what
it's really like to work with professional equipment, in a true
commercial kitchen. And frankly the experience is exciting and fun.
Unfortunately the food we made, well, to be honest, for the most
part wasn't that good. I'm sure that part of it was our lack of
skill. But part of it is also about, as discussed earlier, scale. We
were cooking lots of dishes for lots of eaters (us mainly). In fact
we ended up wasting a lot of food which was kind of a bummer even
after all the hungry people sampled our cooking. There were a few
dishes that came out decently, but in terms of quality of flavor,
texture, and temperature at the time the food was served our dishes
were American hotel buffet quality... and not some of the better
buffets either.
This
fact didn't take away from my satisfaction with the educational
experience. In fact it made me appreciate even more how hard it is
not just to make food for lots of people with high expectations in a
timely fashion, nonetheless make that food really high quality. It's
unbelievably difficult. And while learning the key lessons of how to
cook at scale don't guarantee you'll make great food at scale, you
can't get to great food and commercial success without being
grounded in those same lessons.
The dishes we made included:
Cheese Sticks,
Palmiers with Prosciutto,
Smoked Trout Canapés,
Pickled Shrimp,
Bruschetta with Oven Roasted Tomatoes and Fontina Cheese,
Veggie Sushi,
Crispy Scallion Pancakes with Dipping Sauce,
Grapes Rolled in Bleu de Bresse,
Smoked Whiskey Shrimp,
Smoked Breast of Duck Niçoise Style,
Mushroom Terrine,
Mozzarella, Prosciutto, and Roasted Tomato Terrine,
Wontons,
Seafood Sausage,
Grilled Honey-Smoked Quail with Mango Sauce,
Crab Meat Rolls with Infused Pepper Oils, Fried Ginger, and
Tamari-Glazed Mushrooms with Vietnamese Dipping Sauce,
Roasted Pepper and Eggplant Terrine,
Chicken Breast Roulade with Marinated Tomatoes and Papaya Catsup,
Smoked Duck and Malfatti Salad with Roasted Shallot Vinaigrette,
Gravlax with Potato Galette, and
Tuna Carpaccio with Shiitake Salad to name a few.
After serving and sampling our creations we would
gather round single plated versions we'd done and critique our
creations. I often felt that we were more hardcore than Chef D was
in terms of judging what we'd made. That said, I imagine that most
of the people who take this class aren't looking to get their ass
kicked and told they sucked. Strangely enough that's exactly what we
were looking for. I don't know if this is some masochistic
tendency but basically we were eager to get pushed to do better.
I
don't know if the advanced chocolate making class on the other side
of the kitchen was hardcore either. But I do know that they were
making gorgeous chocolates and we were coveting them. Deeply. It
felt inappropriate to go there and ask to try their chocolates. And
at the end of day two when they were reviewing them and
chewing away we were bordering on psychotic as we stared dreamily
across the kitchen and fantasized about how we were going to try
their creations. At the end of day four I think our long hangdog
looks finally got irritating to the chocolate students and they
broke down and invited us to peruse their leavings. The
effectiveness of the
scrum that ensued was inversely proportional to the dignity we
demonstrated. But a little shameless chocolate grabbing was the
least of our concerns as we stuffed our pockets. They did a good
job. Those chocolates were delicious.