Restaurant Love, April 5, 2006 —
I admit that I have been in a quandary about what to do next with
this blog. Tastingmenu was started
almost four years ago as a
way to document where my friends
and I went out to eat and what we thought of the food at each
restaurant. The seeds for the site were laid many years before when
I kept thinking about starting a restaurant review site. Finally
when I first saw blogs, the cost of entry was so low, that the site
created itself organically over time. I've posted
hundreds of write-ups of
restaurant experiences,
thousands of photos of food I ate (with thousands more not
posted because the food wasn't that good), hosted
two international blog virtual
food awards, gotten to write about
eating across the world,
taking a class at the Culinary
Institute of America, and with my talented friends and the
talent of two great chefs put out
two pretty kickass
cookbooks. The big question that has been on my mind is...
what's next?
I'm not lacking for new ideas. But I wonder what the center of
gravity should be for this site? I've asked myself this
question: even if I post words and photos that describe a thousand
more great meals what will the site have actually accomplished? I'm
not going to stop describing great meals, we have more cookbook and
even guidebook ideas, but I'd like to spend the bulk of the next few
months coming at the problem from a different perspective. What
problem am I talking about? The fact that for the most part, eating
out in the United States sucks.
There is simply no debating the fact that despite many bright spots,
the average quality of food in the United States is below many other
countries - Japan, France, Italy, Spain, Thailand, to name a few.
I'm sure there are countries that are even with the U.S. or even
below it in terms of average quality of food experience, but that's
no excuse. The U.S. is a young country but needs to grow up when it
comes to food. I'll know that we have matured as a country when I
eat somewhere randomly and the odds are better than 50% that the
food will be great. Today I'd say the odds are 1% or less.
I apologize in advance for focusing on the United States. I try to
make the site as global as possible, but I do spend the bulk of my
time in the U.S. so it's what I write about the most, and what I'm
the most eager to improve.
There are many culprits responsible for this mess. Chief among them
are the bulk of Americans themselves (and I do mean bulk) that value
quantity over quality, convenience over flavor, and price over
freshness. The food press is not much better. With few exceptions,
their opinions are shallow and uninteresting, and they
themselves appear to be more interested in a free meal than in
improving the state of eating out in their respective areas. But
hopefully in some small way this website has already been preaching
to these two audiences for several years now - the first with
recommendations, and the second with leading by example.
But the one audience that may be able to have the most impact on
raising the state of food in the United States is the group of chefs
and restaurateurs that are responsible for literally... putting the
food on the table.
I know it's pretty cocky to think that I have any business telling
anybody what to think or do. The recommendations are just my dopey
opinions, this blog is tiny as opposed to the many professional
media endeavors that offer advice in these areas, and I've never
cooked for a living. In other words, as I've said
many times before, I
have no official, professional, or even quasi-professional
qualifications or credentials which give me any actual authority on
any or even one of these topics. And yet, for some reason, I
persist. If you decide to continue reading, at least it's with full
disclosure. :)
So with that long-winded introduction, I'm proud to introduce the
next series of posts here on tastingmenu, titled - "Restaurant
Love". The specifics of the series will become clear over time. In
the meantime consider two simple things:
- I am on a mission to upgrade the average quality of eating out
in the United States. I don't mean a modest upgrade. I mean that
Americans are eating food with the aesthetics and simplicity of
Japanese food, the depth and flavor of Italian food, and the amount
of flavor you find in Indian and Thai food.
- This is a purely selfish effort. I want more good food. And I
want it more often. While I'm happy for others to benefit,
ultimately I'm primarily worried about my own culinary options. :)
While it's doubtful that the country will change
overnight, having a big dream is important. And if this small website
can make a tiny dent in upleveling the quality of food available in this
country, then it's worth it. People who make food for a living (and
actually have the ability to affect its quality - a smaller group than
you'd think) stay tuned, I'll be boring you specifically with my random
opinions starting with the next post.
∞
P.S. There will still be write-ups and photos posted
about restaurants and great meals interspersed here and there, along
with a few other neat surprises we have in store down the road.